Here it is, the wine column that many of you have been waiting for:  a review of boxed wines!  In July, my American Wine Society Chapter did a blind tasting of wines. The theme was “Olympics of Wine” and the host provided 14 wines from countries competing in the Summer Olympics; for example, Chardonnay from USA paired against Chardonnay from France. Unbeknownst to all of us, the host had sneakily poured boxed wines into bottles he collected for months (so as to get the properly-shaped bottle for the wine), then tightly wrapped them in brown paper bags!

Aside from the wines being less complex than usual (my score sheet had numbers in the low teens, and even an “fault” note, rather than the usual mid- to high teens), several were surprisingly drinkable. 

My favorite white of the evening was a 2022 Grüner Veltliner called Schplïnk! from Weingut Norbert Bauer in Niederösterreich, Austria, close to the Czech border.  The box reminds me of an episode of Sprockets, but this white wine is no joke. The graphic design is actually an ode to Kraftwerk. This 100% Grüner Veltliner is certified-sustainably grown. Pale yellow in color, the aroma was slightly spicy, with notes of green apple and lemon, joined by green herbs and minerality on the palate, and the zesty finish expected from a Grüner Veltliner. 12.5% ABV. A 3L box (equivalent to 4 bottles of wine) is about $30, but sadly, I can only find it being sold in New York City. Some stores may ship it.  

My favorite wine of the entire evening was a rosé from France: 2022 La Vieille Fermé from the Southern Rhone by the Famille Perrin.  I’m sure you’ve seen their bottles with the chickens on the label. Back in the early aughts, I regularly bought their value-priced blanc, a white Rhone blend. Composed of Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah, their rosé was properly pale pink, with fresh red berries on the nose, and tart strawberries and minerality on the palate.

I’ve since done a deep-dive on the internet, and discovered that this boxed wine is a well-kept secret that has beaten much more expensive rosés, including Whispering Angel, in blind tasting tests. 13% ABV. A 3L box can be found for $19 at Total Wine & More in Cherry Hill.

My favorite red was a 2022 “Sandy Giovese Vino Rosso” (a partnership between Amy Ezrin and Conti degli Azzoni) from Le Marche region of Italy. Made from organically-farmed grapes, 87% Sangiovese and 13% Trebbiano, this medium-bodied red wine is bursting with red cherries and violets on the nose, with fresh red cherries and pomegranate on the palate, and a clean, fruity finish. Only 12% ABV. 3L box is $33 from Wine Chateau in Metuchen, NJ (can be shipped). Cheers!