April 2024 – dionysian gathering

As I mentioned in last month’s column, I attended the 46th annual Dionysian Gathering for the North American Branch at the Flanders Hotel in Ocean City, NJ in March. The Dionysian Society is the world’s oldest wine society, dating back to ancient Greece. The weekend included four wine seminars, two dinners paired with wines, blind wine tastings, and a sparkling wine brunch.

I wrote about the first two seminars last month. The third seminar was on McPherson Cellars from Texas. Founded by Dr. Clinton “Doc” McPherson, a pioneer of the modern winemaking industry in Texas. There are two main regions in Texas for wine production: Texas Hill Country AVA, just west of Austin, and Texas High Plains AVA, comprising an area two times the size of NJ in northwestern Texas, near Lubbock. The Texas High Plains AVA is located on a huge, high plateau, ranges from 2,800 to 4,000 feet above sea level. It has a continental climate of hot, dry summers and cool evenings. The significant diurnal shifts (hot days and cool nights) help the grapes to retain their acidity and slows ripening, both positive things.

The first wine we tried was a Picpoul. I’ve served Picpoul at a past BCBF Wine, Beer and Bourbon event. Its literal translation from the d’Oc language in southwest France is “lip stinger.” It’s very citrusy, with high acidity, making it a great accompaniment to seafood, or great on its own, on a hot summer day. Fermented in stainless steel, with no oak contact. 12.5% ABV. It runs about $18 a bottle, but is not being sold locally, so stick to a French Picpoul this summer.

We sampled several other McPherson wines, including a Tempranillo that received high marks from the tasters. It had aromas of cherry jam and woodsmoke, and some gaminess on the palate. The wine spent 11 months in barrel, with 20% of it being new French oak. They recommended pairing it with brisket and hot baked beans. 13.5% ABV. This Tempranillo is also not available locally, but there are several red blends from McPherson that are, if you are interested in trying Texas wine. 

My favorite wine tasting of the week was the fourth and final one: Familia Escudero. Miguel, one éof the family members, came to speak to us and share several of their wines for tastings. They have four wineries in Spain, located in Rioja, Navarra, and Catalunya. The winery was founded in 1852 by Juan Escodero, who trained in  Bordeaux before planing his own vineyards in Rioja and Navarra.

Our first tasting was their rosé cava, Dioro Baco “Brut Rosé” Pinot Noir. The grapes are hand-harvested from the town of Gravalos in Rioja. Free-run juice obtained after harvest from a gentle pressing is used to make this rosé. At the beginning of spring, the wine is bottled, where it undergoes its secondary fermentation, to create bubbles. After the second fermentation, it is stored in bottles for a minimum of two years. The wine we tasted had been aged in bottle for 4 years. Raspberry and bright cherry flavors on the nose were joined by other red fruits on the palate. The mousse (bubbles) were very fine (small) and persistent. This was a beautifully balanced rosé cava for only $20 a bottle. It’s available online from Wine Chateau or locally from Berkley Fine Wines in Clarksboro, NJ. 12% ABV.

We tasted several of their wines, all of which were high quality. The last wine we tried was a dry vermouth made from garnacha grapes, Becquar Vermouth de Garnacha Gran Reserva. Once the base wine is made from garnacha, more than 25 botanicals native to the area are mixed in to create this delicious dry vermouth. Ripe fruit, cinnamon, thyme, and rosemary on the nose, with an herbal palate, and nutty finish. In Spain, one would drink it over ice with an olive and orange peel garnish. This slightly bitter aperitif was so good, I bought 6 bottles of it. Available online or locally at Berkley Fine Wines in Clarksboro, NJ, for around $25/bottle. 17% ABV.

Salud!