I just returned from a visit to Oregon, my first.  Along with the obligatory stop at Voodoo Doughnuts in Portland, we also spent time on the Rogue River, Crater Lake, and in the Willamette Valley.  The Willamette Valley is a mere hour’s drive southwest of Portland, and is a Pinot Noir lover’s heaven.  

We only had one day for wine tasting, but managed to hit five very different wineries. The first, chosen because of its proximity to Newberg and 10 AM opening, was Rex Hill Winery. Rex Hill also produces A to Z wines.  Although being the most commercial of the wineries we visited, we enjoyed our tasting on their balcony overlooking their vineyards and well-manicured garden. My favorite of the tasting was their 2016 Rex Hill Chehalem Mountains Pinot Noir. Lots of bright cherry and cranberry on the nose, continuing on the palate with an added spiciness and a pleasing finish. However, because my wine suitcase allotment was only four bottles, I abstained from buying a bottle at $45.

The second winery we visited was Ken Wright Cellars. Ken Wright is one of the pioneers of the wine industry in the Willamette Valley. The night before, we had enjoyed a sublime 2012 Ken Wright Freedom Hills Pinot Noir at a chef’s tasting dinner at the Painted Lady in Newberg.  It was so elegant and well-balanced, I wanted more, so we headed to the converted train station in Carlton that serves as their tasting room. We started with a 2018 Canary Hill Rose, which was delightful enough to get one of us to buy. Next came side-by-side comparison pours of the 2015 and 2016 Latchkey Vineyard Pinot Noirs. 2016 was one of the hottest years on record, producing a higher alcohol wine with a slightly cooked finish as compared to the serene 2015, with bright cranberry and raspberry flavors finishing with some spice.  I brought a bottle of the 2015 Latchkey Pinot Noir home for $57. The entry-level Ken Wright Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is available locally for about $20, and a great value at that price.

Next, we had reservations for a Provisions Tasting (a wine and food pairing lunch) at Soter Winery on Mineral Springs Road in Carlton. The winery is a converted barn atop a hill overlooking their vegetable/flower garden and rolling hills of vineyards. We sat near the open kitchen and waited eagerly for each dish to arrive. Starting with their excellent 2018 North Valley Rose as an aperitif, we continued through a five-course meal, with the best dish (IMO) being the confit chicken leg paired with a 2016 Mineral Springs Ranch Pinot Noir. I gave up two of my coveted wine spaces in the shared wine suitcase to the North Valley Rose ($28) and the Mineral Springs Ranch Pinot Noir ($75), while a friend took home two bottles of their exceptional sparkling wines, a Brut Rose and a Blanc de Blancs. Their North Valley Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is available locally for $30. 

Instead of taking a much-needed nap after that meal, we soldiered on to De Ponte Cellars, which had been recommended to us by the pourer at Ken Wright Cellars. De Ponte Cellars is a small-production winery hidden along a winding road leading up into the Dundee Hills. Their winemaker, Isabelle Dutarte, learned her craft at home in Burgundy, France, and her Burgundian-style wines were a hit with me. Starting with their Melon de Bourgougne (a dry Muscadet, with flavors of apple and honeydew melon), we enjoyed several of their Pinot Noirs, including more side-by-side pours from different vintages. My favorite remained the 2015 vintage, with its minerality and bright fruit. We also got our cat-fix petting Missy, the winery calico.  My last space in the wine suitcase went to their 2015 De Ponte Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($47).

Just as we hit Route 99 back to Portland, we happened to drive by the new tasting room of Day Wines, and decided our palate could withstand one more tasting. Brianne Day is a young winemaker and native of Oregon, known for her experimental, natural wines.  We enjoyed tasting Tears of Vulcan, an orange wine, and her 2015 Johan Vineyard Pinot Noir, while watching her chase her toddler Viggo around the tasting room.  Her Vin de Days white wine, a “patio pounder,” is available locally for $16.

Cheers!